A Detailed 2023 Guide to the Cologne Christmas Market

Considering a visit to the Cologne Christmas market in 2023? Read on for my detailed guide to all the markets in the city!

Cologne (or Köln) is the largest city in western Germany, and a cultural and economic hub. The city is known for having some fantastic Christmas markets, and I have to say, the Cologne Christmas markets were probably our favorite of any we visited during our European Christmas market tour. 

Pine trees covered in twinkling yellow lights are in the foreground, the red roofs of the market stalls in the mid-ground, and the tall, black and white spires of the cologne cathedral in the background, against the night sky.

Cologne Christmas Market is one of the most beautiful and festive Christmas markets in Germany, and a must-see for anyone visiting the country during the holiday season. 

And that’s no surprise – Germany is known for doing Christmas right

Cologne itself is incredibly clean and, while the buildings were more modern and didn’t have that old European charm to them, they were also nice looking. The city just felt well-kept and in tip-top shape. 

But the Christmas markets, oh man! They were really, really phenomenally done. Each of the 7 Christmas markets in Cologne had its own theme, which carried into the decorations, the types of goods for sale, the mugs, and even some of the food. Suffice it to say, we were charmed.

In this post, I’ll share with you everything you need to know about Cologne Christmas Market, including the dates, locations, highlights, and tips for your visit. 

Planning Your Visit to the Cologne Christmas Market

Top Hotel Options in Cologne:

All of these hotels are top-rated, centrally located spots in the city. I would highly recommend you book your hotel early, as hotels do fill up for the Christmas markets.

How to Get Around Europe:

  • By Rental Car: For maximum flexibility, a rental car is the best option. Reserve early because prices increase dramatically as time goes on! I find the best options on RentalCars.com – browse options here.
  • By Train: Trains are a convenient way to get around Europe, but you’ll want to book your ticket ahead of time.

Drinks at the Cologne Christmas Market

But first, let’s take a quick minute to talk about drinks – an integral part of experiencing a European Christmas market!

A woman in a coat, white hat, and scarf sips from a red mug in the middle of a market during the day.

All over the city, you can find drink stands where you can buy gluhwein (hot, mulled wine), non-alcoholic hot cider, or hot chocolate. When you buy your drink, you also pay a small deposit for the cup it is served in. In Cologne, the deposit was usually 3 euro. 

Cologne had some of the best mugs of any of the cities we visited. Each market had their own, unique mug that coordinated with the theme of the market. And within that theme there were a lot of variations.

For example, in the Angel Market the mugs had angels on them, but there were five or six different types of mugs with angels doing different things on them. It was awesome!

A man and a woman smile at each other, and click their mugs together in the Christmas market.

We collected mugs from all over Europe and brought them home with us (pro tip: when packing, stick each mug in a sock, and then place all the mugs in a carry-on duffel bag, padded with clothes). 

If you are keeping your mug instead of returning it for your deposit back, you can still go up and exchange the dirty one you just drank out of for a clean one (people were really nice when we did this – it seems like this is pretty common).

Otherwise, when you return it you’ll get that 3 euro back.

Truly, I found the mugs to be such a delightful part of the Cologne Christmas market – indeed, it was one of my favorite aspects of all the European Christmas markets we visited.

The 7 Markets that Comprise the Cologne Christmas Markets

 Here’s a full breakdown of what each of the markets in Cologne were like, what you can buy there, what foods are available, how much things cost, and all the little extras about why you should go and what to know before you go.

1. The Dom Market (or Weihnachtsmarkt)

This market was set up just next to the grandiose and towering Cologne cathedral. The stalls in the market were all a distinctive red color, with shooting stars at the top of the stall serving as the stall’s nameplate.

A stall of the Cologne Christmas market, with a red roof, a shooting star with the name of the stall in the middle, and the stall full of fun little toys for children.

A giant, elevated Christmas tree stood proudly in the center of the market, with a blanket of lights extending from the tree over the tops of the stalls. Those lights were pure magic when they were all lit up at night. 

A giant pine tree decorated with thousands of lights stands tall above a stage hung with red curtains. A web of lights extends from the tree above the stage, covering the surrounding area.

Just under the Christmas tree was a stage decked out in red. Many nights there was a concert being performed on the stage. The night we were there, there was a children’s choir singing carols – it was adorable and the songs added a lot to the atmosphere. 

There were a lot of food stalls interspersed with the stalls for goods. The focus of most stalls was on Christmas decorations – including candles, ornaments (wood, glass, or even paper), or other decorations.

A close up of a christmas market stall, selling glass, circle ornaments.
Beautiful handpainted ornaments

There were a few stalls with clothing (scarves, hats, and gloves were most common, but there was another stall with animal slippers), and some specialty shops, such as the stall selling intricate wooden model kits, or a really fun toy stall with lots of colors and moving toys.

a close up of a red Christmas market stall, filled with soft little animal booties for kids.

The mug here was a cartoon-ish drawing of the market, complete with cathedral, tree, stalls, and people!

Two mugs from the Dom market held up in front of the sparkling Christmas tree.

One of my favorite things I ate in in Cologne was muzen! I only saw this at the Dom market and it was delicious. It’s a soft, slightly sweet dough that is fried and crispy on the outside, and then rolled in powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar. I’m drooling just thinking about it again…

A stall selling muzen - fried balls of dough coated in powdered sugar.
Come to me, my love!

Just to the southeast of this market, on Am Hof street, you will find a small Advent Village with a Christmas pyramid. These pyramids are such a traditional staple of German Christmas markets – you must stop by and see it (and grab a drink while you’re there!)

A tall tower with fan blades at the top is light up and has a little stand serving drinks underneath - this is a Christmas pyramid.

2 & 3. Heinzels Wintermärchen (Altmarkt and Heumarkt)

The entrance gate to the Heinzel's Wintermarchen christmas market in Cologne -pine trees to the side of the gate, and gnomes decorate the top and sides.

Not far from the Dom Markt was the Altmarkt and the Heumarkt. Technically these were two separate markets/squares, but they were just a stone’s throw from each other and created one unified Christmas market: Heinzels Wintermärchen.

Heinzels Wintermärchen (Heinzels Winter Fairytale) had a woodland/gnome theme. The stalls here were wooden and more rustic, with garland lining the tops of the stalls, invoking the feeling of walking through the forest.

A man and a woman hold hands, smile at each other, and walk down a row of the markets lined with lights and wooden chandeliers.

At the top of each stall was a gnome, and each gnome was doing something a little different, from sleeping to cooking to rappelling to skiing.  

The market really embraced the woodland theme, too, from bar tables being large logs to a little woodland animal scene set up in one corner. Perfect place to capture some photos. Adding to the rustic feel, one of the market stalls was a blacksmith shop adding to the ambiance with it’s sights and sounds – and of course you could watch demonstrations and purchase freshly made wares.


The Altmarkt section was more focused on homegoods and decorations, with some food and candy stalls for variety.

Some examples include specialty shot glasses with glass shapes inside, wooden bowls and cookware, stuffed animals, a variety of candles, bristle brushes, leather purses and belts, cookies, and decorated hanging gingerbread (more meant to be cute and displayed than eaten).

A closeup of a stall at the Cologne Christmas market selling baskets full of scented pine cones.

 In the center of the Altmarkt was a fountain and statue. At night, there are sometimes mini-concerts at this statue. One night we heard small brass band playing carols. 

 There was also a cute little Ferris wheel that you could ride for 3 euro per person.

A man and a woman kiss by the entrance to the Christmas ferris wheel.

 After enjoying the Altmarkt section, you stroll down a decorated section of street with a few more stalls and a carved nativity until you reach the Heumarkt.


The Heumarkt was just so delightful! It still had the woodland + greenery + gnome theme, but it also had more of a carnival feel – there was a really cute ice skating rink, a curling rink, and a carousel. 

A look from above of the ice skating rink in Cologne - with a few skaters on it. Trees and stalls filled with lights line the rink.

The Heumarkt had a lot of stalls selling jewelry and clothes (as well as some selling Christmas decor) and plenty of food.

These two markets were fun during the day, but they became absolutely enchanting at night!

The mugs at this market were red, rounded, and had (surprise, surprise) gnomes on them. What made the mug situation even more extra is that there were 15 different types of gnome mugs in circulation throughout the market.

a close up of the red mugs with gnomes on them sold in Heinzel's Wintermarchen.

4. The Angel Market (at Neumarkt)

The theme for this market was angels, with stalls decked out in white and silver, and nods to stars and angels everywhere. There were angels at the tops of many stalls, lit stars hanging from the trees, and even women dressed up as angels walking around (they’re very nice – you can take a picture with or of them for free). 

A woman in a beanie, coat, and scarf stands between two women dressed up as angels in the Cologne Christmas market.

A pathway through the Angel Market that has stars and dangling lights in the trees.

 The mugs at this market were white and had angels on them. Like the Altmarkt, there were a variety of angel mugs to choose from! They make a new style each year, but there are previous year varieties in circulation.

 Speaking of goods, the focus of this market seemed to be mostly on specialty foods and crafts. 

a stall in the angel market selling specialty dog treats.
Such as specialty dog Christmas treats
A stall in the Angel Market of Cologne selling paper houses and stars.
The booth selling paper houses and stars
A stall in the the Angel Market selling basketballs and shelves full of cookie cutters.
The cookie cutter stands were always super fun and popular

 There were also some really fun foods you could get here that weren’t at other markets in the city. For example, you could get a waffle in the shape of the Dom cathedral.

A stall in the Angel Market selling waffles shaped like the Dom Cathedral.
Not sure why the Dom waffle was at the Angel market, not the Dom market, but oh well!

You could also find booths selling speculoos cookies in the shape of the cathedral (speculoos are essentially the same as biscoff cookies – crunchy, cinnamon-y cookies that are delicious!)

Tree bread (Baumbrot) was also a fascinating treat – it was cooked on a spit over a rotisserie, and a worker would regularly dip the entire spit in battle, creating these layers that look just like the ring of a tree.

A platter of tree bread in a market stall, with the dessert cut so you can see the layers and rings the batter made.
Totally look like tree rings, right?

5. St. Nicholas Market (at Rudolphplatz) 

The St. Nicholas Market might have been the most adorable of all the Cologne Christmas markets. While Cologne itself doesn’t have half-timbered houses, the St. Nicolas market did a good job making up for that, with many of its stalls and decorations being half-timbered, Bavarian-looking structures.

A Bavarian style house with timbers is light up in St. Nicolas Market in Cologne.

A Santa and reindeer display was on top of one of the large drink stands and there was plenty of red and green. 

Statues of reindeer pulling the sleigh are on top of a stall in St. Nicolas Market.

The best entrances were on the east end where you could either enter by a lot of cute buildings, or enter the market through a tall, stone archway part of an old gate. The castle vibe by the gate was a fun touch!

A woman in a coat and white beanie walks through a grand, stone arched entrance to St. Nicolas Market.

The market was smaller in size but had a great variety of offerings, from delicious bratwurst roasting on an open fire (we had one wrapped in bacon- so good!), to paper stars, ornaments, toys, and specialty soaps. In many ways a similar set of offerings as the Dom market, but in a smaller, cuter package. The whole thing exuded such charm!

A row of St. Nicolas market - bricked lane, timbered stalls lined with greenery, and stalls filled iwth ornaments, and leather goods.

The mugs at this market were my faaaavorite of all of Cologne. They were these super cute little blue boots (there was also a white boot option) that I just about died over. 

A hand is holding up ablue mug shaped like a boot, with some scenes of the market on it, and whipped cream on top. In the background is the Christmas market.

6. Harbor Market

A tall ferris wheel is in the background, and white tents with pointed tops are in the middle ground, and an old timey ship that is selling drinnks is in the foreground.

Located along the banks of the Rhine river, and right next to the Lindt Chocolate Museum/Factory is the little Harbor Market. The theming here is distinctly nautical, with white tent stalls with a pointed top, bringing to mind sails, and flags and helm wheels abounding.  

The theme of the market goods was definitely artisanal crafts. We saw a lot of hand-made, unique gifts in this market, including hand-made stools and wineholders, pictures, art, specialty knives and knobs, toys, Moroccan tagines, and beeswax candles. 

A view of a stall selling beeswax candles in the Harbor Market.
A close up of some painted stools being sold in the Harbor Market.
A stall selling Moroccan tagines and dishes.

We ate a kartoffel-spiral, which was a spiralized potato fried on an stick, with sweet chili sauce to dip it into – delicious! Overall food offerings tended toward sea food, from fire-roasted salmon, to fish and chips, to oysters.

a spiraled slices potato on a stick that has been fried in the Harbor Market in Cologne.

There was a very large ferris wheel in this market. It was much larger than the one in the Altmarket and brightly lit.

The mugs here were just clear glasses – less exciting and not something we decided to bring home with us.  

This market is a lot smaller than the others mentioned, but it’s still worth visiting, especially because when you visit the Harbor Market, you also need to stop in for a visit at the Chocolate Factory/Museum. 

 The Schokoladen Chocolate Museum

The Schokoladen Museum is part museum, part functional mini chocolate factory, and even though its not part of the Christmas markets, you can’t miss it on a market tour of Cologne.

The museum starts and ends with a chocolate sample, as you go through a series of rooms that show how cocoa beans are grown and produced.

The real draw of the museum is the factory shop, where you can walk between 10 different stations doing different parts of the chocolate making process. Chocolate is actually being processed in all these machines, so you’re seeing the real deal!

At the end, you can watch a number of chocolate artisans in the process of creating different chocolate creations that need to be hand-made. For example, a chocolate bunny or Santa with different colors of chocolate on it actually has the different colors hand-painted onto the molds. 

A display of a chocolate castle being prepared in the kitchen of the Chocolate Museum in Cologne.

7. Stadtgarden Market

This market is farther away from the Cologne city center and the other markets. We decided to ride a scooter up here, since it was quite a far walk from the next closest market! 

Lots of people gather around bar tables in a park area with lots of trees and a few lights in the Stadtgarden market.

This market had a much, much different vibe than the rest of the Christmas markets in Cologne.

It was really set up as an after-work gathering place to grab drinks with friends – not a family market. There were tons of people here, all in groups or couples, hanging out and drinking gluhwein. The mugs here again were just plain glass.

There were not very many stalls overall, with only a very few of those selling goods, and the rest selling drinks and some foods. Those that were selling goods tended towards more specialty shops, like interesting books and travel gear.

A cute, wooden stall selling greenery, set among the park at the Stadtgarden market.

The setting was also unique – the market was set in a park, so you walked among trees, with wood chips or gravel on the ground. 

Between being pretty small and far away from the other markets in the city, I would say this is not a must-see market in Cologne.

Map of the Cologne Christmas Markets

Dates for the Cologne Christmas Market in 2023

The Cologne Christmas Markets will open between November 20 and November 23, 2023. Most of the markets close on December 23, 2023, although the Heumarkt will close on January 7, 2024.

Each of the markets has different opening dates and hours of operation. Here is the breakdown:

Dom Market at the Cathedral

  • Dates: Nov 23 – Dec 23, 2023 (except Nov 24)
  • Times: Sun-Wed: 11am-9pm; Thurs-Fri: 11am-10pm; Sat: 10am-10pm

Heumarkt (Heinzel’s Wintermarchen)

  • Dates: Nov 24, 2023 – Jan 7, 2024 (closed Dec 24 & 25)
  • Times: 11am-10pm (after Dec 26: 11am-9pm)

Altermarkt (Heinzel’s Wintermarchen)

  • Dates: Nov 24, 2023 – Dec 23, 2023
  • Times: 11am-10pm

Angel Market

  • Dates: Nov 20, 2023 – Dec 23, 2023
  • Times: Sun-Thurs: 11 am-9 pm; Fri-Sat 11 am to 10 pm

St Nicholas Market at Rudolphplatz

  • Dates: Nov 20, 2023 – Dec 23, 2023
  • Times: Sun-Thurs 11 am-9 pm; Fri 11 am – 10 pm; Sat 10 am – 10 pm

Harbor Market

  • Dates: Nov 23, 2023 – Dec 23, 2023
  • Times: 11am – 10pm (except Nov 24: 6-9pm)
  • Note: After Christmas, the Harbor Market becomes the New Years Market, and is open from Dec 26 – Jan 8.


  • Dates: Nov 23 – Dec 23
  • Times: Mon-Fri 4pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 12pm-9:30pm

Foods to Eat at the Cologne Christmas Market

The food at the Cologne Christmas market was soooooo gooooooood! I was highly anticipating eating my way through all the food stalls, and that’s exactly what we did!

We usually at breakfast at the hotel or picked up something from a nearby bakery, but then the rest of our food for the day was eaten as we wandered around the markets, eating a little bit of this and a little bit of that. It was awesome!

These are many of the foods that you will see as you wander the markets:

A plate holding Reibekuchen - a fried potato cake, with applesauce next to it.


A crispy, fried potato cake, similar to a hashbrown. Served with applesauce! These are a staple of Germany Christmas markets, you can’t miss it!

Cost: 5-6 euro for 3

A pizza-like grilled bread with toppings at a market.


Grilled bread with crème fraiche, bacon, onions, potatoes. The Germany version was a puffier bread, whereas the French version was a thinner, crispier bread. 

Cost: 5-6 euro

Waffles shaped like the Cologne Cathedral.


Waffles are always good. Waffles shaped like the Cologne Cathedral are even better.

Cost: 5 euro

Soft balls of dough fried and then rolled in powdered sugar, known as Muzen, at the Cologne Christmas market.


A soft, slightly sweet dough that is fried and crispy on the outside, and then rolled in powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar.

Cost: 1.50 euro for one

A paper bowl with potato noodles, sauerkraut, and a big dollop of creme fraiche - a traditional food to eat at the Cologne Christmas market.


Noodles made of potatoes served with sauerkraut, creme fraiche, and fresh herbs

Cost: 7 euro

A stall selling pretzels, a traditional German food.

Pretzels (Brezels)

You can choose from ones covered in salt, seeds, cheese, or ham!

Cost: 3 euro

Baumbrot, the tree bread with "rings" in the middle.


I described this earlier, but it’s worth putting in this category as well. Stop at the booth in the Angel Market to see them getting made!

Cost: 3-5 euro

spiraled potatoes, fried on a stick in Cologne.

Kartoffel-Spiral (Potato Spiral)

A fried spiraled potato on a stick. It was crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, and came with a sweet ginger dipping sauce – delicious!

Cost: 4 euro

A stall with an impressive display of flavored nuts.

Flavored Nuts

Choose from a variety of flavored nuts! There were several of these stands throughout the markets in the city.

Cost: 4 euro for 30 oz

A crusty sandwich filled with juicy sliced meat at the Cologne Christmas market in Heavenue.

Speissbrotchen (Sandwiches)

I was not expecting a lot from these little sandwiches, so they definitely exceeded expectations. The bun was nice and crusty, and the shaved meat inside was tender, juicy, and flavorful.

Cost: 5.5 euro

One of the most classic German foods - a grilled bratwurst on a bun in the St. Nicolas Market in Cologne.


You can’t go to Germany and not eat some bratwurst! This particular version was bacon-wrapped and was bursting with flavor! I’m not a hot dog girl at all, but I loved this.

Cost: 5 euro

A small firepit encased in glass has salmon being grilled on wooden planks next to the flame.

Fire Roasted Salmon

Filets of salmon are tacked onto wooden boards and then roasted over an open flame. We saw this several times around Cologne (including the Harbor Market, no surprise!)

the blue boot mugs filled with hot chocolate and topped with whipped cream in the Cologne Christmas market.

Gluhwein, Kinderpunsch, or Heiss Chocolate

Drink stations are everywhere in the markets! Gluhwein (hot, mulled wine) is very popular, but there are a variety of alcoholic drinks you can order.

If you’re not an alcohol drinker, you can order kinderpunsch (hot apple cider) or hot chocolate.

Cost: 3-4 euro, plus the 3 euro deposit for the mug (which you can return for your deposit back when you’re done drinking, or keep as a souvenir)

What to Buy at the Cologne Christmas Market

There are a ton of goods to buy at the Christmas stalls throughout the city – this is not a comprehensive list by any means. However, this is a pretty good representative sample of what sort of things are for sale, plus an idea of what they will cost.

A stall full of baskets of cookie cutters at the Cologne market.
Cookie cutters (4-8 euro)
Scarves, hats, gloves (10-30 euro)

A red stall full of nutcrackers, tin soldiers, and other Christmas decor at the market.
Nutcrackers, tin soldiers, and other Christmas decorations
A red stall full of olive wood nativity pieces at the Cologne markets.
Alpine village houses and people. Germany had the best selection of these villages of any of the countries we visited. (40-80 euro, for people: 5-10 euro)
Add-ons and accessories for a nativity scene (2-5 euro)
Large paper stars made of cardstock
Paper stars – these were super popular around Germany and were beautiful all lit up! (10 euro)
A stall with traditional German Christmas cookies and treats.
Delicious Christmas treats, including soft gingerbreads, fruit breads, and chocolate dipped tree bread. Stands like these were common throughout the markets. (roughly 50 cents per piece)
Beeswax candles in a variety of shapes and sizes on display at the market.
A huge variety of candles of different shapes, types, and sizes
A variety of wooden ornaments hung up in a stall at the markets.
Wooden ornaments (right) and wooden Christmas windmills (bottom left) (2 euro for ornaments)
Wooden spoons, bowls, and other housewares in a market stall.
Wooden housewares
Specialty chocolates shaped like donuts and cupcakes at the Cologne markets.
A variety of specialty chocolates (1-2 euro per piece, generally)
Gingerbread shaped into hearts and decorated with icing, made to be ornaments.
Decorative gingerbread “ornaments” (4-8 euro)
Nice jewelry on display at the Neumarkt
A large variety of jewelry

Doing a Whole Christmas Market Trip?

Looking for inspo for other Christmas markets to visit? We loved visiting the Basel Christmas Market in Switzerland (omg the cheese!), the Colmar Christmas Market (so adorable), the Strasbourg Christmas Market (incredible light displays), the Trier Christmas Market (a charming German town), and the Luxembourg Christmas Market (really fun atmosphere)

Other Things to Know About Visiting the Cologne Christmas Market

  • There are no entrance fees to visit the Christmas markets
  • People in Cologne speak German, of course, but you will find that most people interacting with tourists speak at least some English.
  • There are some stands that will accept card, but many places will just take cash. There are ATMs around the city, so it’s not hard to find a spot to pull out some euros. 
  • Weekends are very busy, so if you can, visit on a weekday.
  • Every market had a bathroom. While some were “temporary”, they weren’t simple porta potties and were in good condition. Some were free, but most encouraged a 50 cent “donation”.
  • The Heavenue Christmas Market (aka the Gay Market) will not be open this year.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Securing some travel insurance is an important part of prepping for any international trip – you never know when something might happen, and your regular insurance generally won’t cover you overseas. Costs for a medical emergency on vacation can add up extremely fast, so it’s just better to be safe than sorry. 

I like booking insurance at Insure My Trip, as they offer a variety of plans with different coverages to choose from, so you can find the right option for you. Plus, they have great customer support if you need help before, during, or after your trip.

👉Check rates at Insure My Trip here!👈

Final Thoughts on The Cologne Christmas Market

Between the delicious foods, the vast variety of goods, and especially, the TOP NOTCH theming of the markets, the markets in Cologne were an absolutely delightful winter wonderland to visit.

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