This Incredible Spanish Village Built Into the Rocks Is So Unique, It Almost Doesn’t Feel Real

ByStephanie Rytting Posted on

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most unique villages in all of Spain, and a can’t miss stop on a southern Spain road trip. What makes it so unusual and special? Besides being one of Andalucia’s gorgeous pueblos blancos (white villages), it’s also a troglodyte city, or a “cave city.”

Indeed, throughout all of Setenil, you’ll see the buildings are actually caves carved into the rock walls of the cliffs that the village is built around. Massive boulders overhanging the streets, and doors to buildings seemingly coming right out of the rocks.

I walked through the city truly in awe of the way the geology of the land and the engineering of the city just melds together, working harmoniously to create a one-of-a-kind village.

History of Setenil de Las Bodegas

The area of Setenil de las Bodegas has been settled for at least 2,000 years, if not more – it was definitely settled during the Roman invasion and occupation during the 1st century AD.

However, the current town was established by the Moors between the 1100-1200’s AD, when Andalucia was controlled by the North African Arabs. The name of the city is thought to come from the latin term “septem nihil”, which means “seven times nothing,” referring to the multiple failed assaults on the city by the Christian re-conquerors.

Finally, after a 15 day siege, the city was reconquered by the Christians in 1484. Much of the castle and defenses were destroyed during that siege – today, only a tower of the castle remains. The term “bodegas” refers to the vineyards that were planted in the region during the 1500’s.

Things to Do and Places to See in Setenil de Las Bodegas

1. Discover the Picturesque Streets

The main thing to do in Setenil de las Bodegas is explore and discover all the streets with rocky overhangs – each one a delightful surprise as you wander the small town.

Here are 7 “cave streets” in Setenil, including the most popular and famous streets, as well as lanes that are more off the beaten path.

Calle Cuevas del Sol

White buildings are built into the hill side with tan and black rock overhanging the curving street in Setenil de las Bodegas. Calle Cuevas del Sol.
A woman in a red skirt walks along the street under the huge, overhanging cliff face.

Calle Cuevas del Sol is the “main street” in Setenil, and is the most famous street in the city. This street runs right along the babbling Trejo River, and has a jaw-dropping horizontal rock overhang over a long stretch of the street.

Along this area, you’ll find multiple restaurants and cafes where you can linger over your lunch and enjoy the sights and surroundings of the city. Reservations are recommended for these locations.

Calle Cuevas de la Sombra

A woman in a red skirt walks down a street in Setenil, Spain. White buildings meld into a slanted, massive rock that covers the street.

Just around the corner from Calle Cuevas del Sol is the also very popular Calle Cuevas de la Sombra. This street features an absolutely massive boulder that covers the entire street (and makes for a stunning photo).

A massive rock covers a street.
Calle Cuevas de la Sombra in Setenil is topped with a massive rock covering the street and buildings.

Calle Herreria

Several steps lead up an alley between white washed buildings with massive cliffs rising out of the buildings. Calle Herreria.

Calle Herreria was actually one of my favorite streets in Setenil de las Bodegas – I loved the contrast of the stone overhang and the narrow staircase ascending up towards it.

Calle Jaboneria

A woman in a red skirt and blue jean jacket sits on a ledge in front of white buildings and a massive cliff in Setenil, Spain. Calle Jaboneria is the name of the street.

Calle Jaboneria is actually the same street as Calle Cuevas del Sol, but this section of the road is located around a curve and closer to the outskirts of town. Calle Jaboneria was likely named for the soap factories or markets that could have been located here (“Jaboneria” means soap shop) or it could have just been that this was an area where women would go down to the river to do their washing.

Calle Cabrerizas

A large rock cliff overhangs a street with white buildings in Setenil. The street is Calle Cabrerizas.

Calle Cabrerizas is also the same street as Calle Jaboneria – it changes names again after a near 90 degree turn in the street (and the river that the street is following). This street is definitely part of the outskirts of town, but it still has a pretty significant rocky overhang.

Calle Calcetas

Buildings appear to support or grow into a slanting cliffside. Calle Calcetas

This little street isn’t even named on Google Maps, but it’s a tucked away and adorable rocky street near the Trejo River. You can find it right off of Calle Callejon (named Calle Cjon on Google Maps), right before Plaza de Andalucia. I’ve also pinned it at the map at the bottom of this post.

Calle Calanas

On Calle Calanas, the white buildings sport numerous flower pots and the green hillside is in the background, adding color to contrast the tan cliff.

Finally, Calle Calanas is a little street that can be found very close to the Parking Los Canos, but even the street itself does not show up on maps! This little lane is a small offshoot of the Calle Callejon, around #47. Again, the location is pinned on the map below.

2. Miradors (Viewpoints) Over the City

There are 3 main miradors (aka viewpoints) that I want to highlight in Setenil de las Bodegas. If you picture the town as a rectangle, each of these viewpoints is on a different side of the rectangle, so they all give a unique look down over the village. These viewpoints are located on top of the cliffs that overhung the streets highlighted above.

Mirador del Carmen

Mirador del Carmen offers a view over white buildings with brown and tan tile roofs in Setenil de las Bodegas.

Mirador del Carmen is one of the main viewpoints over Setenil de las Bodegas, and is located pretty centrally in town. You will need to climb up 2 large staircases to reach the viewpoint, but it’s worth it!

Mirador del Lizon

The city of Setenil stretches down a hillside in whites and browns. The view from Mirador del Lizon.

This viewpoint near the castle tower gives a beautiful side view of the city and some of the cliffs that the town is built into.

Mirador Balcon de Setenil de las Bodegas

Mirador del Penon de los Enamorados looks down on the city, a church, and into the vineyards on the surrounding hills.

This viewpoint, the “Balcony of Setenil,” is located across the village from the Mirador del Carmen, and is definitely the highest viewpoint over the city. I loved seeing the church sitting high on the hill and and the white buildings and tan roofs surrounded by the olive groves in the surrounding countryside.

Of note: In town, signs to this mirador call it the “mirador del penon de los enamorados”, or the viewpoint of the rock of the lovers.” In Google Maps, it’s just called the Mirador Balcon.

Other Points of Interest

3. The Almohade Tower and Cistern

An old stone, square tower sits in the midst of smaller white buildings. The Almohade Tower and Cistern is the remains of an ancient castle.

Also known as the “Castillo of Setenil, ” this tower is the only remaining structure from the large Almohade Castle, built in the 12th century when the North African Moors lived in the region. The castle held off conquerors from Setenil de las Bodegas for hundreds of years, before falling and being destroyed when the city was finally overtaken by the Christian armies in 1484.

Inside, there is a large cistern that you can walk around, as well as several rooms that function as a museum, sharing information about the tower and history of Setenil.

You can buy tickets for the tower at the tourist office in Setenil.

4. Puente Sobre el Rio Trejo

This charming little bridge crosses the River Trejo that winds its way through the town, connecting Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra. The name literally means “Bridge Over the Trejo River” – ha!

5. Iglesia Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion

Iglesia Nuestra Senora de la Encarnacion is a tan, Spanish style church with one bell tower.

This is the largest church, by far, in Setenil, and stands proudly on top of the hill just adjacent to the old Almohade Tower. This late Gothic cathedral was built on the ruins of a mosque, and has a chasuble (a ceremonial outfit for priests and bishops) that was a gift from the monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, after they laid seige to and conquered the village.

6. Ermita de Nuestra Senora del Carmen

An orange and white domed chapel inside Ermita de Nuestra Senora del Carmen.

This small and charming little chapel is just around the corner from the Mirador del Carmen.

Map of Places to Visit in Setenil de las Bodegas

When to Visit

Setenil is a great place to visit any time of year. Like most of Andalucia, Setenil enjoys generally warm temperatures, with winters seeing highs in the 40’s and 50’s, and summers seeing highs in the 80’s to 90’s (or more). Spring and fall are generally the most pleasant times to visit, weather-wise.

Setenil has become an increasingly popular destination in the past few years, and as such, crowds have also increased. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the lowest crowd levels. When I visited in April, I arrived right at sunrise, at 8am. I had 1-2 hours with the village practically to myself, which was delightful, and then around 10-11am, the village started getting more visitors, but it wasn’t packed yet.

The Wrap Up

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most unique cities you will find in Spain, or really anywhere in the world. It has its own unique charm with the towering cliffs, and way the buildings built into the caves create a truly organic feel as the city merges into its surroundings. It is definitely worth a visit as part of your tour through Andalucia!

Stephanie is the author of The Unknown Enthusiast. She's visited 21 countries and 37 of the 50 US states (but her first love will always be France). When she's not traveling, she enjoys reading, taking naps, playing games, eating popcorn, and spending time with her husband (Matthew) and 4 daughters. Stephanie lives in Alabama, USA.

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